Sunday, 23 November 2014

Bologna, a city of Porticos...

Situated in the province of the beautifully named Emilia-Romagna, its capital Bologna is famed for being a food haven, it is after all the birth place of spaghetti bolognese - Taglietelle al ragu if you're looking for the authentic Bolognese dish here. Bologna to Italians is known as La Dotta, La Rossa, La Grassa which means the educated, the red, the fat. For the oldest university in Europe stands here to this day - University of Bologna which started out as a law school, the red - for the red bricked buildings, and the fat - for its local cuisine consisting of creamy pasta sauces and rich meat dishes. 

This is a city filled with unique and historical character. It is made beautiful and even more intriguing by the porticos (arched walkways) that line the red bricked buildings, which has equally interesting roots. During the expansion of population in the city, partly due to the growing student body of the University of Bologna, additional living space was required. The solution was to extend buildings over the streets below while maintaining the roads by using porticos to support the additions. Eventually, it became such a distinct feature of the city that officials imposed rules for the construction of the porticos such that is uniform throughout. 

One of the most beautiful experience I have had thus far is a somewhat-pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca atop the San Luca hill 279m above sea level. Walking there will take you through the longest portico in the world, starting from outside the city walls to the top of the hill with (3796m). There are public transport available for you to cut short the journey and start walking up the steps as well, but I decided to slowly stroll through the city all the way up to my destination, taking me roughly 2 hours each way. 

Climbing the stairs is not extremely difficult, but it is a long way. It is common for the locals to jog - up and down. Most of them are quite senior as well, putting me to shame as I walk up slowly already heavily puffing out of my poor fitness state. Unwinding with a cone of Gelato topped it all off with the great flabours offered by Bologna Gelato franchise la Sorbetteria Castglione - definitely try their pistachio flavour.

I left wanting to go back again, and I shall one day in the far future. I loved Bologna, with my limited range of Italian cities visited, I daresay that it is my favourite. It is a city that lets you walk with beauty that fills each corner, history at every turn, and amazing food for the gastronomical traveller.








 









Monday, 17 November 2014

Napoli

I am thinking back to a more relaxed period of my life, roughly 4 months ago when I was still on exchange in Italy. Napoli was my last stop and maybe I have been everywhere too far inland that the sight and sound of the sea was enough to make me fall in love with it. I was a little apprehensive about making a trip there as scattered comments on the net seemed to paint Napoli in not the best of lights. It turned out to be one of my favourite cities in Italy. The air is salted with the scent of the sea and there seems to be a slightly more genuine feel in the atmosphere. 

The city often acts as more of a gateway to attractions nearby such as Pompeii, Almafi Coast, and other islands nearby. It is therefore less of a tourist attraction in itself. That may well be one of the reasons I took such a liking to Napoli, the various buildings with their colours and ornamented appearance accompanied me as I walked through the streets - not alone, as is advised. 

There is a street that tourists are often point towards to - via San Gregario Armeno where artisan crafts are made right there and then (some) by locals. With tourism a huge business the world round, it is often difficult to decipher true local souvenirs apart from factory scale produce. Here in Napoli, it is the real deal. Along the street, you will undoubtedly come across chilli like looking wooden ornaments. They are a horn (corno) said to be a good luck charm and ward off the evil eye, thus being called a portafortuna. Another popular item you will find is Pulcinella, a masked character who appears in old theater and puppet shows, know as a prankster.

Going to Napoli without eating pizza could be classify a sin. After all, it is to them that the world owes the creation of pizza to. Needless to say, it was obvious that I was going to have a pizza pilgrimage to one of the most well known pizzeria's in the world - Da Michele. They serve only two types of pizza, margherita and marinara, and claim that their recipe goes back five generations. To avoid the crowd, try going before rush hour, which would be around 12. With ingredients so fresh and mastery of the art of making pizza, I doubt I'll ever be able to eat a pizza in the same way again. For this and this alone I would make sure that I go back to Napoli.